Kitchen Madness

 Posted by on January 8, 2015
Jan 082015

Welp, it’s started, people. We are in full out kitchen reno mode. Lots of posts to come and an official before and after, but for now feast your eyes on this beauty:

Cabinet Ripout

Hope you all had a fantastic holiday season! Can’t wait to start 2015 off right with our brand new kitchen…


 Posted by on September 3, 2014
Sep 032014

Hi friends! Sorry we have been MIA recently. It’s been CRAZY around here. I got a new job. It’s the bomb (Hi, guys!). And then I thought, I’ll just work full time and take classes sometimes too, no biggie.

Chris is still teaching. Which is probably ten times more work than working full time and studying on the side – just don’t tell him I said that.

But to add insult to injury, I dragged Chris and the rest of my family into starting the best business ever. Wine ice cream. That’s right, WINE ICE CREAM. It’s just as delicious as it sounds. We’re still in crazy, CRAZY startup mode, fermenting wine, making product, working on growing our online presence (Like us! Follow us!) – the usual. After the long and winding road that was the licensing/permitting process, we had a fantastic official “grand opening” on the wine festival circuit at Kegs and Corks on August 23rd. It was a great start and we can’t wait for our next event – this weekend’s Maryland Seafood Festival!

Oh, and besides all this, we’ve had to move forward pretty quickly on house projects after just a few things bit the dust on us: just the central air condenser and our kitchen appliances. Which means we are moving full steam ahead with essentially an entire rear-house reno. Like I said, no biggie!

Ok, I’d be completely lying to you if I told you life has been easy for us. It’s been nonstop crazyness for months now, with no signs of letting up. We go to bed and wake up exhausted. I’m a hot mess every day. Chris and I fight just as much as we always have, if not more. BUT, I will say that I don’t think I’ve ever been so productive – or felt so fulfilled. Sure, we’ll hit a breaking point sometime (probably several times, if we’re being honest). And I generally expect all the hypothetical worst-case scenarios I’ve worked up in my anxious little head to fully come to fruition. But for now, we are riding this wave and loving it!

So, forgive us if posts are nonexistant, slow or stupid for a while. We’ll get it together someday, I promise!


Medieval Times: Part I

 Posted by on April 18, 2014
Apr 182014

You know why I named this post Medieval Times? Because they joust, and that reminds me of joist and that’s what this post is about. I tend to think I’m rather creative with my titles (remember the Coldplay one?), but maybe I’m just laughing to myself and you’re thinking the same thing Katie is 99% of the time–“you’re so weird.” Yes.

Anyways, one of the first projects, and potentially most important for Katie’s piece of mind, was to replace/sister the existing floor joist in our kitchen that was “holding up” the floor underneath our fridge. Why? Well, the floor was about two inches off level in the back of our house, which we credited to an approximately 4″ by 4″ notch cut into the existing joist:

Notched Floor Joist

Why also? Because Katie has a general fear of floors collapsing that I think is entirely irrational, but I love her so I do what she says.

But anyway, as you can see the notch in the joist was pretty substantial, and the rest of what existed to hold the joist up was sort of like a bad mashup song–just throw a few things together that don’t work and hope for the best. Welp, the best here was that the floor was sagging, and it just so happened that the refrigerator was right on top of it. Super safe. So those “sister joists” (which consisted of seemingly random scraps of various sized boards that weren’t really supporting anything, and were shoddily screwed in with some basic drywall screws) had to go:

Prying off old boards

Removing all those erroneous boards also gave us a chance to get a better look at the joist. It turned out that there was actually an existing, semi-functional 2×10 sister joist attached to the 2×10 “original” joist with the notch in it – although I write original in quotes because this joist is clearly not original to this hundred year old townhome, in which all other viewable floor joists are huge, 4×10 guys. But anyway…unfortunately, the 2×10 sister didn’t do much in terms of stabilizing the floor, since it didn’t actually cover the notch that was the real culprit of our sag. What it DID do was cover about a 4 foot span of the joist where various wires ran through:

Wires through joist

So really, that “sister” joist was really more of an ugly stepsister. Woof.

Since we are not in the business of haphazardly removing potentially live wires, we knew we had a few options here. Either remove the existing sister only from the portion of the original joist that had no wires in it, or completely remove and replace everything with the help of an electrician/plumber, since the joist was also precariously perched over our relatively new water heater. We had a few general contractors come out to give us estimates – all of which ranged in the $1-3k ballpark. Since we could come up with lots of better ways to spend a few G’s, we decided that the first option was the way to go.

So one Saturday we enlisted the help of a few trusty recruits for the project: Katie’s dad and brother. We figured if we attempted this as a two person mission, we’d both kill each other–so we should have at least have some witnesses around.

First things first: in order to attack this project, we really needed to see what was going on. We could already tell after removing the random smaller boards nailed/screwed into the existing joist  that things weren’t as simple as they might seem – so we decided to also remove the floor. Our best option here was to come at everything from the top, so we could see exactly what we were working with – so we whipped out our circular saw, set it to a hair deeper than the 3/4 inch floorboard depth, and let er rip. Which created a huge hole in our floor, but left us much more room for activities (if the activities you like are replacing joists) and the opportunity to see what was actually going on:

Cutting the floor

With the floor out of the way, we could continue with the circular saw to cut into it and remove the 2×10 sister joist that wasn’t being very sisterly. We cut a few times in order to remove as much as the sister as possible without running into any wires, etc:

Cutting sister joist 2

Cutting Sister Joist

This was a total turning point in the project because with the sister removed, we could actually see the original 2×10 joist that was anchored into the brick foundation. What we discovered was pretty disappointing: the “original” joist was not actually a single 2×10 as it should have been, but instead was made of TWO 2x10s – which explained the need for a super janky 4×4 post in the middle of our basement to support the ends of each where they met in the middle of the house. We don’t actually have any original photos of that discovery – we must have been so distraught that we forgot to take them. But here are a few before and sneak peak afters so you can see what we mean (the after includes a new, metal post that we installed):

Janky post

New Post under half joists

To remove the existing post and replace it with the more reliable metal one, we actually had to purchase two adjustable posts, which were cheap (around $40) and easy to find at our local Home Depot. First, one went under the notched side of the existing joist as a temporary support (we just adjusted it so it fit loosely upright):

First Post Up

Then, we removed the old janky post and replaced it with the second new metal one – this was an all-hands on deck situation so there aren’t any action photos, but yu can see from the “after” above that we put it directly where the old post was, right underneath the meeting point of the two existing 2×10’s.

Next we had to wrangle a new 2×10 sister joist into place, which took a few steps. (Sidenote: I just want to make a note here because maybe this will happen to you, but I’ve written the word “joist” so many times that its starting to look like a made up word.) First, we had to prep our new sister joist for the wall, and the wall for the sister joist. We removed a good amount of brick and some old concrete from the foundation wall, so the new sister could fit into the foundation right next to the existing 2×10 and be completely supported there. The problem was that the hole we made was just slightly too small and the board just a little too fat. Rather than remove another entire brick to enlarge the hole, we just used our plane to shave off some of the joist wood, kind of like we did when we replaced our front door.

Planing the Joist

When we’d removed the few milimeters it took to finally fit the new sister joist into the wall, we could gradually work the rest of the sister joist into place; then the two 2×10’s got secured together using some massive lag bolts, which scoffed in the face of the teeny little screws that had held the old ugly stepsister joist in place:

Wedging the sister in place

Adding Lag bolts

Finally, we cemented the sister joist into its final resting place in the brick foundation using some structural-grade repair cement. The stuff needed a few days to dry, so we packed up our stuff and called it a successful (if exhausting) day.

Now you may notice that I called this post Part I. You may also notice that I called the post “temporary”, and that at this point in the story, we still had a huge gaping whole in our kitchen floor. I assure you, all of these these things eventually got remedied with the rental of a hammer drill – but that’s a story for another post, isn’t it?

Painted Ceiling Fans

 Posted by on March 17, 2014
Mar 172014

We decided early on that we wanted to upgrade the ceiling fans in this house. In fact, switching out a heavy, old, grime-encrusted fan was one of the very first things we did when we moved in. We ended up finding a much more visually appealing light fixture for a steal, and decided to see what life without a ceiling fan was like. I happen to think that all but the most expensive, custom-order fans are gross looking, so in my book anything that wasn’t a fan was an upgrade – just look at the before and afters:

Living Room Before 2


New Lamp

After a hot and humid Baltimore summer, though, I quickly reneged on my anti-fan views. We ended up running our air conditioner much more than I would have liked, and then on top of that we resorted to a few strategically placed table-top fans at night or when we were working in one particular room. And since white plastic fans are not a good look, I figured I should just cave and accept that even the ugliest of ceiling fans are way more effective and unobtrusive.

Still, I wanted to try SOMETHING to make whatever ceiling fans we installed more aesthetically pleasing. And what do you imagine that something might be? Why, spray painting, of course – what else?

I Googled a little and after finding that several folks have done this successfully already, I was sold. So I picked up the most basic fan that Home Depot sells (for about $30), a few cans of clean metal primer and paint, and got to work. It was as easy as priming and painting each piece (I didn’t assemble anything first, since I figured I’d get the most coverage that way), waiting for everything to dry (I actually waited about a week, since I wanted everything to be 100% set so I wouldn’t scratch anything when I installed it), and then following the manufacturer’s instructions for installation. Then, voila:

Painted Ceiling Fan

Spray Painted Ceiling Fan

Lyndhurst Duchess Blue and Beige Ceiling Fan

It’s still a ceiling fan, of course, but I do think it beats the generic, plain white version – or even worse, a wood-and-brass model circa 1982. So for $40, I’m calling this one a win! Now we just have to choose colors for the other two fans we plan on putting in each bedroom upstairs. We went with a more neutral color downstairs, but for the other rooms I’m thinking something a little bolder is in order. Any suggestions?

Happy Monday, everyone!

The Most Wonderful Time of The Year…

 Posted by on February 18, 2014
Feb 182014

Yes, it’s that time of year again – tax time. As of February 15, you should have all the documents you need to file your federal tax returns – oh JOY!

Ok, taxes suck. Especially if you’re like many of us, and make sure to adjust your federal and state withholding properly to ensure you DON’T get a huge refund. Wait – what?? Yes, that’s right – it’t actually BETTER to not get a tax refund every year, because that refund is actually YOUR OWN DAMN MONEY – letting the government hold onto it for the year is like giving out an interest-free loan to Uncle Sam. But that’s some financial drivel for another post…

Now, we just want to share with you a fantastic program that applies if you ARE getting a tax refund – huge or otherwise. has teamed up with Turbo Tax to offer a 10% bonus on federal tax refunds that are paid as amazon gift cards. Yes, you read that right – 10%!!

So say, for example, you’re supposed to get a $500 tax refund. If you purchase Turbo Tax from Amazon (at a discounted price, no less), and choose to get that refund as an gift card – which you can use to purchase any of the thousands of products on the site – you will actually receive a gift card in the amount of $550! Yup, you little mathematicians out there – that’s a 10% bonus. And this bonus applies to up to $2,000 in refunds per card, $10,000 per person. If my math is correct, that’s up to $1,000 of free money, just for converting your refund to an Amazon giftcard!

For more details click the image below, or the graphic in our left sidebar:

Happy taxing, everyone!!

**This post contains affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the brands that help support DWD!

Our DIY Mid-century Inspired Bed

 Posted by on February 15, 2014
Feb 152014

Note: If you’re clicking over from, you should know that the process here differs slightly from the exact plan you saw there. Instead of a 2″x4″ for the center slat support as described in that plan, here we used a 2″x6″ board – which turned out to be a bit of an overbuild and pushed the height of our mattress up unnecessarily. So the plan includes a cheaper and just as functional 2″x4″, with a single 2″x8″ leg. The building instructions are all very similar, however, so this post should still be helpful for you!

I know, it’s been a while coming. After sharing our unsuccessful bed shopping, over the summer we decided to take things into our own hands and make the perfect bed frame to replace this sad scene:

Bed on Floor

Now, we have this (after painting the entire room Behr’s Gray Area) – our bedroom isn’t completely finished yet, but it’s WAY better than empty, white walls and a mattress on the floor:

DIY Midcentury Bed


DIY Midcentury Bed 2

And the best part? Since we already had all the tools we needed, the whole project only cost about $80!! So we’re sorry this little recap has taken so long – it’s been an busy few months for us. But, we hope it’s been worth the wait…and better late than never, right? So here’s how we did it…

We started by cutting our lumber (you can see the cut list in the budget breakdown below) – we used 2″x8″s for the visible bed frame, then 2″x4″s screwed to the inside of the left and right side 2″x8″ boards to hold up the slats our mattress would eventually rest on. Everything was attached to four tapered 2″x4″ legs, and a center slat support was made from a 2″x6″ board and a few leftover 2″x4″ legs.

So the first step for this little adventure was to taper our 2″x4″x”18″ legs. Which was by far the most stressful part. We Googled a bit, and came up with a DIY jig we could use to make perfectly symmetrical legs:

L-Shaped Taper Jig

We just attached two scrap 2″x4″s together in an L-shape, then used a wood screw near the inside corner to form an adjustable resting point for whatever boar we want to taper. If you can’t picture it, here’s how it works:

L-Shaped Taper Jig How To

Theoretically, this was a great idea – and eventually it ended up working out just fine. But getting to that point was a  longgg journey that happened to involve a lot of fighting between my dear fiance and I. Mostly, we argued over whether to remove the blade guards from our little table saw (which had to be done in order to fully slice through the 2″x4″s). Chris thought it was dangerous – and I did too, considering that this was the first time either of us had ever used a table saw to begin with – but we knew there wasn’t an alternative because the guards aren’t hinged high enough off the base to allow a 4″ tall piece of wood (like our jig) to pass through. So, eventually we stopped yelling and sacked up, and – CAREFULLY – cut each of the leg tapers. We did one side on each first, with the screw measured out half an inch, then readjusted the screw so it was a full inch out and cut the other side of each, leaving us with a half inch taper on each side:

DIY Taper Jig - Copy


DIY Taper Jig in Action

After all our cuts were made we actually moved on to finishing all our exposed pieces, which included all four legs (the tapered 2″x4″s) and sides (the 2″x8″s). Since we planned on assembling the bed in our bedroom, this was a necessary step before assembly (we didn’t want to be stinking up the house with stain/polyurethane). And it turned out to be the step that took the most time – some aggressive sanding with course, then medium, then fine grit paper, then a coat of stain, then several coats of polyurethane with fine-grit sanding in between each one – which was several weeks in the making. But the time and effort were worth it for a smooth, glossy, perfect “dark walnut” finish.

When the finishing was finally done and we were ready to assemble our bed, we had to first pre-drill all our pocket holes using our new Kreg Jig. There are plenty of pocket hole jigs available, but the Kreg Jig seems to be the most popular and easiest to use, so we bought the starter kit and it worked great. We drilled two holes in the top and bottom of the left and right side frame and slat supports:

Use Kreg Jig to Drill Holes


Two Pocket Holes each in Slat Supports

Then we attached the unfinished 2″x4″ slat supports to the left and right sides of the frame, using 2.5″ wood screws spaced about 3″ apart – we measured and marked carefully before actually attaching so that the unfinished rail supports sat 1 inch from the bottom of the frame sides (note that the plan on has been modified so this distance is 1/2 inch, though). I also started with a bead of construction adhesive, just to be sure those suckers aren’t going anywhere:

Attach Slat Supports to Outer Frame

After both side slat supports were attached, we moved on to attaching the four legs to the frame. At first we struggled, but then we realized that flipping everything on its side let us use the floor as a “level” for the sides and legs (making it way easier to line everything up properly). After that it was a simple matter of attaching everything using 2.5 inch Kreg screws in the pre-drilled holes:

Line Up Legs with


Kreg Screws


Since our floors tend not to be the most level/uniform surfaces on the planet, I did have to improvise at some points to keep everything as square as possible. The solution was just a few scraps of cardboard wedged under low spots where needed:

Use Cardboard for Alignment

Once we had both sides done and all four legs attached, we knew we had to move upstairs (everything at this point had been done in the kitchen), since everything thereafter would make the bed too big to fit through any doors. We leaned the old mattress against a wall, and had just enough room to lay everything out. This time, we flipped everything over yet again so the sides were completely upside down. This just made it easier to attach the top and bottom frame portions to each leg, again using 2.5 inch Kreg screws in already-drilled holes:

Flip Upside Down

Then we put together the center rail support, which was just a few scrap 2×4’s attached to the center 2×6 (for the instructions on, the center support is a 2×4 with one 2×6 leg):

Center Support

The center rail support got attached to the rest of the frame while everything was still upside-down, and we just used a few of the actual rails stacked on each other to support it at the right height:

Place Middle Support


In our case, we miscalculated the height of the legs, so we actually had to shave down our 2×6 center support a bit (don’t worry, this problem is fixed in the plans posted on by replacing the 2×6 with a 2×4):

Attach Middle Suppot

Redone Center Support

The final step was to flip everything over and attach all the mattress rails. Easy peasy, but at this point it was getting late and Ralph did not appreciate that his bed was not snuggle ready:

Finished Bed

Sad Ralph

Luckily it only took a few more minutes to put the mattress on top and make the bed for him!

So that’s how we did it, folks – and we are loving the results! It’s definitely a solid build, and the perfect minimalist design for our cozy little room. Below you’ll find our total budget breakdown, and full plans can be found at!

Final Budget Breakdown:

  • 2x8x12  ($11.17) (x2) –  $22.34
  • 2x4x10 $4.52 (x2) – $9.04
  • 2x6x10 $6.74 (x1) – $6.74
  • 1x3x8 furring strip $1.45 (x14) – $20.30
  • Stain $10.77
  • Poly $10.77
  • Screws $2.05
  • Total: $82.01

This post is linked up with:

Miss Mustard Seed’s Furniture Feature Friday


The Shabby Nest’s Frugal Friday